Cut

Cut In today’s marketplace there are at least 10 major diamond shapes or cuts. Beginning with the round brilliant, gem quality diamonds are categorized as princess, emerald, marquise, pear shape, oval, radiant, asscher, heart, or cushion cut stones. In addition to these shapes, diamonds may be cut into many different uniquely cut stones. That list would include trillions, kites, both tapered and straight baguettes, briolette cut diamonds as well as half moons, bullet shaped, and rose cut stones. The choices and options available based on the different possible combinations in these shapes, quantity and sizes of diamonds has led to an explosion in the number of jewelry styles and fashions available to the general public. This however, was not always the case.

For hundreds of years diamonds were used in their natural state admired for their hardness and rarely used in jewelry. The first attempts at modifying the diamonds natural shape came in the middle ages, and it was not until the 17th century that “brilliant” cut stones were developed. While these stones looked nothing like the diamonds of today, it was the first attempt by professional diamond cutters to reshape a diamond symmetrically and add some luster and brilliance to the stones by grinding away some of the diamond at select intervals and adding “facets” to the diamond. It really was not until the beginning of the 19th century, with the advancement of diamond tools and lathes that further advancements were possible.

It is in 1919, with the geometric observations and calculations of Marcel Tolkowsky in his book “Diamond Design” that modern diamond cutting or polishing began. While his calculations continue to be modified he was the first to use real mathematical and geometrical calculations to determine the optimum placement and position for all facets in the construction of a round brilliant diamond. These calculations understood the relationship between light and the refraction of that light inside the diamond in order to bring out the most fire, luster and sparkle from the diamond material. Today’s mathematics, science and technology have further enhanced our ability to determine the precise locations for all facets of a diamond and the “cut” of a diamond plays a very important role in the overall appearance and value of a diamond. The Gemological Institute of America has included “cut” as one of the 4C’s, the others being color, clarity and carat, in its description of a diamond. Those diamonds with the best cut are characterized as excellent, followed by very good, good, fair and poor. As with color, the results of how a stone is cut can immediately be seen in the luster, and brilliance of that stone. If the mathematical proportions and calculations were correct, the diamond, and in many ways regardless of its other characteristics, will stand out and refract light in such a ways as to have a fire inside the stone.

Along with cut comes the diamonds symmetry and polish. Symmetry of course refers to the diamonds geometrical proportions and polish refers to the smoothness of the surface of the diamond as a result of its faceting. Both of these attributes have a bearing on how well light refracts and reflects off of the many facets of a diamond. The better a stone is cut the more it sparkles. It is an attribute which has a direct impact on the look and overall appearance of the diamond or piece of jewelry which is being created. As an attribute that can immediately be seen, it can make a white stone appear whiter as it allows more light into the stone and because of the refraction of that light, keeps it there for a longer period of time. The cut of a diamond is one of its most important attributes. It cannot only add value to the stone, but enhances its look, size, sparkle and luster. It should be considered carefully when purchasing a diamond.